Discovering the Vernissage of Yerevan: Between Craftsmanship, Art, and Memory
A birth amid censorship: when artists took over the streets
Born in the 1980s, during the Soviet era, the Vernissage of Yerevan was much more than a simple craft market. It was a form of cultural resistance. While the Soviet regime imposed strict control over artistic production, Armenian artists began to exhibit and sell their works outdoors without authorization. This movement was a way to bypass censorship, express their identity, and claim a certain freedom of creation.
Initially, these informal exhibitions took place near the Union of Artists of Armenia, on what is now Charles Aznavour Square. The artists took real risks, as any unauthorized commerce was illegal under the Soviet regime. But their will to share their art was stronger than fear.
🌟 Historical evolution of the Vernissage of Yerevan
1980s (late Soviet period): The Vernissage began informally as a gathering of artists in a park near the Opera, who exhibited their works on weekends. They wanted to bypass official exhibition circuits and sell directly to the public. It was an act of artistic freedom in a still very controlled system.
1990s (Armenian independence): After the fall of the USSR in 1991, the economy collapsed. The Vernissage transformed into a place of economic survival. Everything was sold there: carpets, icons, tools, Soviet coins, original artworks... Each stall told a story of reconstruction.
Today: The market has moved and become more organized (near the Republic Square metro station), becoming a major tourist attraction, but it retains its artisanal spirit. Some vendors have been there for 30 years. You can still find original works, naive art, antiques, traditional musical instruments, and sometimes mysterious or esoteric objects.
From secrecy to the public square: the geographical evolution of the market
Over the years, the Vernissage changed locations to accommodate its expansion. It first moved to the park in front of the Komitas monument, then to the Martiros Saryan Garden, where painters still exhibit their canvases today. Finally, it found its current location along Aram and Buzand streets, near Republic Square.
This spatial evolution also reflects the transformation of a country: from the survival economy of the 1990s to the emergence of a modern cultural identity. The market grew with Yerevan, becoming a symbol of Armenian creativity.
A living market: what you will find at the Vernissage today
Art and craftsmanship
Paintings, sculptures, religious objects, silver jewelry, hand-woven carpets — the market is a festival of shapes, colors, and textures. Each item tells a story, often linked to the artisan’s family.
Antiques and curiosities
You can find Soviet souvenirs, traditional musical instruments, old clocks, and so-called "healing" stones. It is a market where the old and the spiritual mingle.
Interesting fact: Hidden in a corner of the Vernissage (the large open-air craft market), a small section is dedicated to folk remedies, talismans against the evil eye, energy stones, and magical amulets sold by local "witches." Some will even offer to read your future in coffee grounds or create a custom potion based on Armenian herbs.
Human encounters
Talking with vendors is often the highlight of the visit. Some are contemporary artists, others descendants of ancestral artisans. All are proud of their culture and happy to share it.
Why visit the Vernissage of Yerevan?
Visiting the Vernissage is a dive into the living culture of Armenia. It is one of the best places in Yerevan to discover local crafts, buy an authentic souvenir, or simply feel the pulse of the city. This market is a rare blend of commerce, history, and artistic passion.
Conclusion: a market, a memory, a message
The Vernissage of Yerevan is much more than a place of commerce. It is a space of living memory, a theater of resilience where art stood up against censorship. Today, it remains a symbol of creativity, transmission, and national identity. A visit is a must for anyone wishing to understand the soul of Yerevan.