Harissa and Memory: A Culinary Journey into the Heart of Armenian History
This April, as we commemorate the 110th anniversary of the Armenian genocide, we address a more serious topic, one laden with history and emotions.
The memory of this tragedy, which cost the lives of 1.5 million Armenians, continues to resonate across generations. Through this tribute, we aim to highlight not only the memory of the Armenian people but also a symbol of their resilience: harissa.
This traditional dish, seemingly simple, carries with it a deep history of survival, solidarity, and resistance. Before delving into the harrowing historical context associated with it, let us first explore the origins and cultural richness of harissa, the dish that embodies the soul of a people.
A Simple Dish with Deep Roots
Harissa is much more than just a dish in Armenia: it is a symbol of solidarity, memory, and resistance. Made from cracked wheat (korkhot) and meat (lamb or chicken), harissa is a slowly cooked, creamy, nourishing dish deeply rooted in Armenian identity.
An Ancient Origin
The roots of harissa trace back to antiquity. As early as the Urartu Kingdom (9th–6th century BCE), the people of Armenia’s highlands cooked grains with meat in large clay jars. This slow-cooking method has endured through the centuries, remaining at the heart of Armenian culinary traditions.
Historically, harissa was often served at community gatherings, religious festivals, and moments of collective solidarity, strengthening the bonds within the community.
Harissa and Religion: A Christian Symbol
According to Armenian Christian tradition, harissa is associated with St. Gregory the Illuminator, the patron saint of Armenia, who is said to have converted King Tiridates III to Christianity in the early 4th century. This conversion marks a foundational moment in Armenian Christian identity, and harissa became a symbolic dish during religious celebrations, emphasizing the spiritual nature of this dish.
Harissa in Pre-Christian Traditions
Before the adoption of Christianity, harissa was already present in agricultural rituals and harvest festivals. It was prepared during Navasard, the pre-Christian Armenian New Year, celebrated on August 11. At this time, harissa was cooked in a tonir (traditional Armenian oven) without being stirred, a gesture believed to bring luck and prosperity for the coming year.
The Harissa Festival: A Living Celebration
Today, harissa is celebrated annually in Armenia during the Harissa Festival, especially in the villages linked to the history of Musa Dagh (Musa Ler). Every September, large pots are set up outdoors, and villagers and visitors take part in the collective cooking, perpetuating ancient practices. To the sound of traditional dances and Armenian songs, this festival is both a culinary celebration and a vibrant tribute to the spirit of resistance of their ancestors.
The Harissa Festival is not just a gastronomic celebration: it is an act of memory, a joyful and poignant reminder of the tragic history that this dish has come to symbolize.
The Traditional Recipe
Though every family has its own version, the base of harissa is faithful:
- Ingredients: cracked wheat (korkhot), lamb or chicken, water, salt.
- Preparation: The meat is slowly simmered in salted water until tender. Then, the wheat is added, and the cooking continues for several hours over low heat, stirring constantly to prevent the mixture from sticking to the pot
In fact, the Armenian word harissa comes from the verb harir sa, meaning “to stir.” This etymology perfectly reflects the attention this dish requires during its long cooking process.
The result is a creamy, hearty, and deeply nourishing dish. Depending on the region or family, some add melted butter at the end or lightly flavor it with cinnamon.
Harissa and Great History: A Symbol of Resistance
The Armenian Genocide: A Necessary Context
Between 1915 and 1916, under the regime of the Young Turks, the Ottoman Empire implemented a policy of systematic extermination of the Armenians. Approximately 1.5 million of them were killed or deported under atrocious conditions. This genocide, now recognized by many countries, aimed to erase an ancient culture and population.
Who Were the Young Turks?
The Young Turks were a nationalist political movement that seized power in the Ottoman Empire in 1908. Under their regime, they carried out the Armenian genocide, aiming to "purify" the Empire by eliminating Christian minorities.
They viewed the Armenians as a threat to the integrity of the Ottoman Empire, which they perceived as weakened by repeated military defeats and the separatist aspirations of some of its minorities.
The massacres and mass deportations began in 1915. This was a methodical process, orchestrated by the Young Turks, involving the execution of hundreds of thousands of Armenians under inhumane conditions: massacres, deprivation, rape, forced labor, and death marches to deserts where many perished from hunger and thirst.
Musa Dagh: The Story of Heroic Resistance
In 1915, in the mountainous region of Musa Dagh, Armenians in the villages of the mountains rebelled against deportation orders, refusing to submit to the violence of the Ottoman Empire. These villages included:
- Kaboussieh
- Yoghunoluk
- Bitias
- Vakef
- Kheter Bey (Khodr Bey)
- Haji Habibli
On July 13, 1915, facing deportation orders, nearly 5,000 Armenians from these villages retreated to the Musa Dagh mountain to escape certain death.
The inhabitants, including women, children, and men, formed defense committees and began fortifying their position. This resistance lasted for 53 days, from July to September 1915, and was a heroic act of survival against a much stronger Ottoman army. Their courage and determination to protect their families and culture became a symbol of Armenian resistance.
The Role of the French Forces: A Life-Saving Evacuation
As the Armenians of Musa Dagh were besieged by the Ottoman army, they sent distress signals visible from the sea. These signals were spotted by French ships, including a battleship, the Guichen, patrolling the Mediterranean. Moved by the tragic situation, the French authorities decided to launch an evacuation operation to save the civilians.
From September 13 to 15, 1915, under the imminent threat of the Ottoman army, 3,004 women and children, along with over 1,000 men, were evacuated to Port Said, Egypt, where they were placed in refugee camps. This rescue was an act of solidarity that embodied crucial support in a moment of despair for the Armenians.
The Historical Impact and Symbolism of Musa Dagh
The story of the Musa Dagh resistance is one of the most moving accounts of the Armenian genocide. The survivors carried their memory, their history, and their culture around the world, becoming a symbol of resistance to the systematic destruction of their people. Their struggle even inspired Jews during World War II, as they sought examples of resistance against Nazi oppression.
This sacrifice and struggle for survival were immortalized in numerous accounts, one of the most famous being the book "Musa Dagh" by Armenian writer Frédéric Mistral, which popularized the story of this heroic resistance internationally. Today, Musa Dagh is not only a geographical location but also a symbol of Armenian perseverance through the ages.
Conclusion: Harissa, a Symbol of Resilience and Memory
Harissa, both a humble dish and a powerful symbol, embodies the soul of the Armenian people. Through its preparation, simple ingredients, and slow cooking, it reminds us of the moments of solidarity and resistance that have marked Armenian history, even in the most disastrous of situations. This nourishing dish, which has lasted through the centuries, is more than just a recipe: it is a living testament to the survival of a culture, identity, and people.
The tragic events of the Armenian genocide remain deeply embedded in the collective memory of the Armenians. The heroic resistance of the people of Musa Dagh is a striking example of courage and solidarity in the face of systematic destruction. Through harissa, the Armenians did not just survive physically; they continued to resist culturally and spiritually, preserving their traditions, values, and history in the face of adversity.
Today, as we commemorate the 110th anniversary of the Armenian genocide, harissa continues to play a central role in the lives of Armenians, not only as a traditional dish but also as a symbol of resilience, memory, and resistance. Each spoonful of harissa is a celebration of survival, an act of memory, and a tribute to the victims of the genocide, to those who resisted, and to those who allowed the story to continue being told.
Through harissa, the Armenians honor the courage of their ancestors and reaffirm their commitment to preserving their cultural heritage for future generations. This dish, just like the story of Musa Dagh, will forever remain a testament to the unyielding strength of the Armenian people in the face of the test of time.